Kazakhstan 2024 - the Kosmostation and Big Almaty Lake

We had finally escaped the heat as we reached the Ile-Altau NP just above the city of Almaty. We left our hotel that morning at 6am. Anar drove us to a meeting point with another driver (Lyosha) who drove us up to the Kosmostation at 3,300 meters. We had to pass through a military checkpoint as we were entering a border zone with Krygyzstan and whilst there was a showy Eversmann's Redstart at the border post, I daren't take my lens out!

The Kosmostation itself is a very interesting place and worth taking a moment to describe. Situated about 30 kilometres south of Almaty at an altitude of about 3,300 meters. It had previously been known as the Tien-Shan High-Altitude Scientific Station and had been set up during the Soviet era to monitor high-energy cosmic radiation. Although it looks rather like a ram-shackle now, it is still operating with scientists still living and working there. It is also home to several high altitude specialists hence the reason why birders visit it. We birded around the old buildings and had four pairs of Guldenstadt's Redstart plus a fifth bird (a male) that was feeding young entirely by himself (good lad!). We also had Yellow and Red-Billed Choughs, Lammergeier, displaying Water Pipits, Brown and Altai Accentors, Himalayan Snowcocks and Plain Brown Mountain Finch.

Walking up the final stretch of road to the Kosmostation

Some of the old yet still operational buildings of the Kosmostation

The weather closed in and I was starting to feel the cold!

I spent a bit of time with the single male Guldentadt's Redstart while Louis-Philippe and Nick looked for Altai Accentor. 

Guldenstadt's or White-winged Redstart

Water Pipit (subspecies Coutelli)

Brown Accentor

After several very enjoyable hours at the Kosmostation, we returned to less lofty elevations and took lunch near the Big Almaty Lake.  

Big Almaty Lake

We walked the perimeter path of the lake where we had Nutcracker, Himalayan Rubythroat (stunner!), Evermann's Redstart, Blue-capped Redstart, Black-throated Accentor, Common Rosefinch and briefly Red-mantled Rosefinch plus more Greenish and Hume's Warblers than you could shake a stick at - all singing and calling! ebird checklist here.

Red-mantled Rosefinch

Common Rosefinch

Hume's Warbler

Hume's Warbler

Greenish Warbler

Blue-capped Redstart

Black-throated Accentor

Himalayan Rubythroat

We scanned the rocky edges of the lake and eventually located an Ibisbill - a stunning and enigmatic species.  After that we returned to the hotel and immediately after dinner I hit the hay as I was struggling still with fatigue.

After breakfast the next morning we returned to the Big Almaty lake but took a different route this time as we were looking for (and found) White-browed Tit Warbler. Views were very brief though and this photo was all I managed.

White-browed Tit Warbler

We also found a Sulphur-bellied Warbler, which although they are leaf warblers, do seem very happy hopping around on rocks and boulders. 

Sulphur-bellied Warbler

We also pinned down a Songar Tit and had many more Hume's and Greenish Warblers.  ebird checklist here. After lunch I elected to take a break and went to bed as I no longer had any energy or even interest in any further birding that day.