Kazakhstan 2024 - the Taukum Desert Steppe

My alarm went at insanely early hour of 3:15am! That morning we were going to search for MacQueen's Bustard which meant being out early on the Desert Steppe. We drove 30 kilometers northwards from Kanshangel before turning off the main road and heading along a narrow piste through the desert to a stop where we began scanning for the Bustards. Louis-Philippe got us onto a bird, it was distant and the gradually increasing heat haze made viewing tricky but at least we had found one. 

Louis-Philippe and Nick scan for McQueen's Bustards

There were also plenty of Black-bellied Sandgrouse flying around and looking for safe drinking spots. The air was filled with the sound of larks, mostly Calandra larks, Greater Short-toed Larks and Turkestan Larks. No obvious Bimaculated Larks or Eurasian Sky Larks. We needed to be in more rocky uneven terrain in order to see Bimacuclated - more to follow there. We also flushed another large Aquila and this time it was, to my delight, a Golden Eagle. Golden Eagle has been an obvious gaping hole on my life list so it was great to finally see one. 

Golden Eagle - a long overdue 'lifer'.

We also had 4 Monty's that morning and a little later we managed to find up to 6 Greater Sand Plovers (2 sets of juveniles, 2 quite well-grown and 2 recently fledged).

Greater Sand Plover

The insanely early start and the lack of a proper sleep was really hitting me at this stage and if I'm honest I struggled throughout the entire trip with fatigue. It was a combination of the early starts, lack of sleep on the flight over, the heat, long intense days of birding and poor sleep in the hotels and guesthouses. However, I didn't want to let that stop me enjoying my time in Kazakhstan and I just had to keep telling myself that I could rest when I got home because for now I might never be back again and might miss some incredible birds.

We got back to the hotel at 11am and thankfully gave ourselves until 3pm before heading back out. To be fair, once the heat picks up and the haze appears there is not much birding or bird activity until late afternoon when the temperatures start to fall back a bit.

In the afternoon we headed back out, this time heading towards the foothills of what eventually becomes the mountain range separating Kazakhstan from neighbouring Krygyztan. We stopped to view some 2000 year old Hieroglyphs on a raised rocky outcrop which gave 360 degree views of the surrounding desert steppe. 

2000 year old hieroglyphs on an area of raised rock

This photo doesn't do justice to the panoramic views of the surrounding desert

We flushed hundreds of Calandra and Greater Short-toed Larks from the roadside but as the terrain became more undulating and rocky it started to suit Bimaculated Lark a lot more and it was in one of these rocky areas that it we managed to find three Bimaculated Larks. They afforded much better views than the single bird we'd seen in Armenia the previous year and the structural differences between them and Calandra Larks became much clearer We also had several Pied Wheatears and Red-headed Bunting in this area.

Calandra Lark - one of the many

ebird checklist here

We finished the day by checking the sheep pens on the opposite side of the road from the hotel for Desert Finch. We saw two but views weren't great. We also had Turkestan Shrike, a family party of Hoopoes and bird of the day (for me) Long-tailed Shrike. ebird checklist here

Long-tailed Shrike - possibly at the most northern edge of their wintering range in southern Kazakhstan

Desert Finch

And that was it for another day!

Sun sets on the Taukum Desert

Kazakhstan 2024 - Almaty and start of the Desert Steppe

We arrived late evening in old capital of Almaty and stayed in an airport hotel. We were picked up at 6am the next morning by Louis-Philippe and Anar who were to be our guide and driver/cook for the rest of our trip. We made our way out of Almaty through the morning rush hour traffic, our eventual destination by the end of the day was the Taukum desert steppe north-west of Almaty.  However before reaching there we birded a series of ponds, lakes and canals en route. We started our birding that day at an area of suburban lakes and reedbeds where we enjoyed a lovely picnic breakfast and did some light birding with plenty of Black Terns, Black-necked Grebes, Black-crowned Night Herons and Little Bitterns. 

One of many excellent meals from Anar's 'field' kitchen - we never once went hungry!

We searched the nearby reedbeds for Clamorous Reed Warblers managing to find one singing bird along with a supporting duo of Cuckoo and Lesser Grey Shrike. 

Clamorous Reed Warbler

We spent the rest of the morning and afternoon birding these more of these areas. Highlights included White-headed Duck, Azure Tit, Caspian Gull, Kentish Plover, Garganey, Ferruginous Duck and Collared Pratincole, Greenish Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler and a very busy Rosy Starling colony. 

Azure Tit

Rosy Starling - plenty of food for hungry youngsters1

We made a brief roadside stop to ID a large Aquila spp. which turned out to be Steppe Eagle.

Steppe Eagle heading in the long grass.

By late afternoon we arrived in the area of desert steppe where we were going to spend the next few days birding. We did a late afternoon search for Caspian Plover and Greater Sand Plover but failed to locate either. However, with the sun dipping the evening light was perfect. I spent the last hour or so of that watching a Syke's Warbler feeding its young and noted carefully the differences between it and the Booted Warblers we'd been watching only a few days earlier on the northern steppe. A pair of Rufous-tailed Robins and a Little Owl added to the entertainment.

Rufous Bush Robin

Syke's Warbler

We checked into our hotel which was effectively a large roadside motel. 

Kanshengel Motel and Cafe

We were stationed along the main south to north Almaty to Astana road. 

Most of fellow guests were I'm told either long distance truck drivers (some coming from China and going on to Russia in the north) or shepherds moving livestock long distances. The rooms were basic, the noise all night from the trucks running their fridges in the carpark and the stifling heat made sleep difficult despite being shattered. On the plus side, the motel had a large canteen style restaurant and we were well fed during our stay, not sure about the green cola drink though!!

The motel 'restaurant'.

Dinner - another 'meat-fest' washed down with a bottle of 'Green Stuff'!!

The 'chai' was excellent though and very refreshing after a hot day's birding.

A cuppa o' Chai at the end of a busy and hot morning's birding was always refreshing.

More birding to follow in the next instalment!

Cape Return 2026 - Part 3

Sunday morning came around too quickly to be honest. Harry and Brians' visit had come to an end, and after yet another huge breakfast, they headed back to the mainland on the morning ferry. I birded myself all day although my lower back and hip were aching so I took it a little easy, saving myself for a more concerted push the next day.

Monday morning dawned cool, calm but very foggy. Before breakfast I walked to Lough Errul and Michael Vicent's garden but the fog was so thick you could barely see a thing.

A very foggy Lough Errul

After breakfast I decided to walk up to old Lighthouse Road, the fog was slow to clear and birding was slow.

The Old Lighthouse complex on Cape Clear

Just whilst I was dreaming of there being a Catharus thrush hopping around the lighthouse buildings a message came up on the birders WhatsApp group that Callum Fawdry had found a Little Bunting in the trees at North Harbour that was showing well. Little Bunting is an Irish tick so I wasted no time in getting back down from the east side of the island, picking up my camera gear at the B&B en route, and arrived (in a sweat) at North Harbour in time to see the bird briefly in a sycamore tree before it vanished. Ticked at least but no photos. After an hour of waiting the bird was refound between the cemetery and the Bill of Clear where it showed well on the small path. After getting what I felt were more than acceptable views and photos of it on the deck, the bird flicked up briefly onto a lichen covered stone wall and posed like a diva!

To be honest, it's been a while since I've done any meaningful bird photography, for lots of different reasons. The moment the Bunting popped up and posed and I got the above shots was like a shot in the arm for my bird photography. I felt the old buzz returning, the enjoyment I get when I manage to capture good shots of a good quality bird. It had already been an amazing few days on Cape but this little bird was the icing on the cake.

I grabbed a very late lunch and then walked the lower road towards the bogs. I found a Pied Flycatcher at Brid's garden and a tail-pumping yet silent Pipit further along the low road that was most probably a late Tree Pipit. After all of that I spent the remaining few hours of the day trying to capture a respectable record shot of the Pied Flycatcher that had been frequenting Cotter's garden throughout my stay.

As usual the day ended in Cotters with the log call.

I took the 9am ferry off the next morning, stopping once again at a warm and calm Toe Head where two Spotted Flycatchers were the best on offer.

Before I knew it I was touching down at Heathrow Airport and navigating the mayhem that is the M25 at rush hour. Cape might feel like a distant memory but in reality it's never too far away in my thoughts and I will not leave it seven years before I return.

Cape Return 2026 - Part 2

Saturday's weather was a different story altogether. We spent the time before breakfast 'viz-migging' outside the B&B and scanning the garden of Cotter's pub for any newly arrived migrants. We had plenty of active Chiffchaffs and Willows Warblers and the recently ringed Pied Flycatcher was active and calling. 

'Viz- migging' above Cotter's garden

A vocal and rather showy Chiffchaff outside the B&B

After a very heafty Irish breakfast we decided to walk the east of the island and took the road past the priest's house and National School up towards the old Post Office before dropping down onto the helipad (where I found a Whinchat) and back into North Harbour by the A1 road (it's definitely not an 'A' road believe me). The sun shone all day, the craic was great even if the birding was a little slow. 

Our 'star bird' of the day - Whinchat

Taking our time along the 'A1'

View from the 'A1' of Roaringwater Bay and the Mizen Peninsula in the distance

As usual we ended the day in Cotter's for the evening log call.

Birders assemble for the evening log call.

Cape return 2026 - Part 1

It was hard to believe that seven years had passed since my last trip to Cape Clear Island, County Cork (see here). A lot of water under the bridge since then and I'm determined now more than ever not to leave it so long the next time.

I flew into Cork airport on the morning of 1st October. Cape Clear Island, for those who don't know, is a small inhabited island (of approximately 150 residents) off the south west tip of Ireland. It is only reachable by ferry which sails mainly from the picturesque harbour village of Baltimore. I was too late for the first ferry that morning but had time to kill before the evening sailing at 5:30pm, so I set coordinates for a place called Toe Head (between Skibbereen and Baltimore). I spent a very pleasant few hours birding there and, despite the wet and windy conditions, I did manage to dig out a Pied Flycatcher and a Spotted Flycatcher. 

Spotted Flycatcher, Toe, Cork - 1st October 2026

I arrived at Baltimore in good time and spent the rather bumpy crossing to Cape Clear chatting to Cork birder Chris O'Sullivan.

I was met at the pier on Cape Clear by local resident Mary Leonard who kindly ferried my luggage up to the Cluain Mara B&B whilst I quickly stopped by Cotter's garden and checked for any birds.

Cluain Mara B&B, my base for the trip

And although they weren't doing any food in Cotter's pub that night, the barman kindly rustled up some chicken and chips for me which I happily washed down with a few creamy pints of Murphy's.

Friday morning dawned wet and windy, I surprised myself by finding a Spotted Flycatcher in the trees opposite Brid's garden before breakfast, it can't have had an easy time finding food in those conditions.

My good friends Harry and Brian arrived at midday on Cape and as the weather closed in, we lit the fire and spent the afternoon indoors 'gassing' whilst sheets of rain swept across the island. 

Feet up and fire lit, lots to catch up on.

A small clearance late in the day allowed some evening birding and a Pied Flycatcher in Cotter's allowed brief views. 

South Harbour after a clearance in the weather

We dined that evening in Ciaran Danny Mike's pub (or CDMs if that's too much of mouthful) and popped into Cotter's Pub after to join the Bird log call.

Drinks before dinner at CDMs.

Kazakhstan 2024 - Astana and the northern grassy steppe

First views of Kazahkstan as we descended into Astana

In June 2024, myself and Nick Watmough took a two week long birding trip to the central Asian country of Kazakhstan. Our trip started from Heathrow airport with a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul. A tight turn-around in Istanbul followed before boarding a second flight to the new capital of Kazakhstan, Astana. We arrived mid morning and transferred to our hotel via taxi where we sensibly grabbed a few hours of sleep before heading out to the nearest ebird hotspot, a large urban pond on the southern edge of Astana (Small Taldykol Lake).

Urban birding in Astana

Ready to bird despite the jet lag

We spent several hours here and despite the mosquitoes we enjoyed nice views of Paddyfield Warbler (making up for our less than satisfactory views at Armash last year), Citrine Wagtail, Western Yellow Wagtails ('beema' or Sykes's Wagtail), Bluethroat ('pallidogularis'), Siberian Stonechat ('maurus') Northern Wheatear, White-headed Duck, 'Steppe' Gull ('barabensis'), Common Tern, Marsh Harriers and Purple Heron. See eBird checklist here

Citrine Wagtail - Astana, Kazakhstan

'Steppe' (barabensis) Gull - Astana, Kazakhstan

Paddyfield Warbler - Astana, Kazakhstan

We returned to our hotel and availed of the Steak house restaurant on the ground floor before heading to bed early in readiness to be picked up at 6am and driven out to the 'grassy steppe' for the first full part of our Kazakhstan oddessy.

Meat-fest!

We were based at a small guesthouse in the village of Khorgazhin, about one hour thirty minutes south west of Astana. 

Our plush accommodation in Khorgazhin village

Ideally placed to explore the vast grassy steppe where our target species would include such gems as Black Lark, White-winged Lark, Sociable Lapwing, Black-winged Pratincole, Demoiselle Crane and Pallas's Gull. A guide / driver had been arranged for us and he expertly navigated our way around the steppe ensuring that we were able to see all the species we had hoped for. Each day Alexandr picked us up from our guesthouse at 6am, we were given a packed breakfast and headed out onto the steppe in his 4x4 to search for our target species. We would usually bird until about lunchtime whereupon we would be dropped back to our guesthouse for lunch and rest before being picked up again around 3pm to bird until 6 - 7pm that evening. This worked well as it helped to avoid the heat and afternoon lull in bird activities and gave us both a mid-afternoon rest. 

It was hot and humid out on the steppe - these horses had figured out how to stay cool

We connected with our first target species, Sociable Lapwing, on the first morning. A flock of about 50 birds, all adults, most likely failed breeders and indicating sadly a poor breeding season possibly due to heavy rains earlier in the year. 

Sociable Lapwing, Khorgazhin, Kazahkstan

Black Larks were plentiful in areas of short grass, with White-winged Larks seeming to prefer slightly longer. Despite their abundance they were tricky to photograph even from the car, despite careful approach, the second you'd wind the window down and point a lens they would be off. I did really like watching their display flight though, which reminded me of a mixture between European Nightjar and European Storm Petrel. We fared better on the last day though following heavy rain before dawn which meant the birds were present but less active and flightly (although rather soggy looking!). Other plentiful species on the northern steppe included Eurasian Skylarks and Western Yellow Wagtails ('beema' or Sykes's Wagtail).

Black Lark

Black Lark

A slightly soggy White-winged Lark

'Skyke's' (beema) Wagtail

Black-winged Pratincoles were a little less easy to find but we did eventually happen across a small party of obliging individuals. 

Black-winged Pratincole

Alexandr also brought us to see a very nice colony of breeding Pallas's Gulls. I may have seen one in Bulgaria way back in 2009 but had not ticked the species, there was no doubting it this time.

Pallas's Gull

Pallas's Gull mobbing White-tailed Eagle

Raptor-wise we had several Pallid Harriers, one very smart male and this female that flew alongside the car for long enough to get some reasonably sharp shots. 

Female Pallid Harrier

A single Steppe Eagle perched on a pylon was a fine sight and Marsh Harriers were present in good numbers. 

Steppe Eagle

Demoiselle Cranes were another target species that seemed to just come across from time to time rather than going to specific locations to see them. 

Demoiselle Cranes

Unfortunately the large wader flocks had already moved through so wader species were thin on the ground but we did have a large flock of Eurasian Curlews (failed breeders returning?), Little Ringed Plover and Marsh Sandpiper.

Eurasian Curlew

Little Ringed Plover

I have to mention the shear abundance of midges there were out on the steppe. If you wound the car window down for a minute then the car was full of them. If you stood outside then pretty soon they were in your eyes, ears mouth and nostrils. On the plus side there's clearly very little use of organophosphates on the steppe and whilst it was uncomfortable I'm not complaining! Alexandr had a good solution, a small dab of baby cream kept them at bay as they hate vanilla! I had no baby cream on me so needed to innovate! 

On our last evening we enjoyed nice views of a Booted Warbler complete with fledged young. This was to be very useful as two days later we would encounter Syke's Warbler (also with young) and with Booted Warblers fresh in our minds it was very easy to see and even note the significant differences between the species. 

Booted Warbler

There was also a smart and obliging 'maurus' stonechat in the same area. 

Siberian 'maurus' Stonechat

We birded until lunchtime on the last day and were then picked up and brought by taxi back to Astana airport for a flight south to the old capital of Almaty.