Kazakhstan 2024 - the Ile River Delta

This morning we were allowed a lie-in and were not up until the late hour of 5am. We rechecked the sheep pens for better views of Desert Finch where this time we also had Turkestan Shrike, Blyth's Reed Warbler and Sykes's Warbler (ebird checklist here).

We scoped out several drinking pools (whilst enjoying breakfast in the car) for Black-bellied Sandgrouse (ebird checklist here).

It's not just birds that like the drinking pools

and these horses were very curious of us!

We spent the rest of the morning searching hard for Caspian Plover and I am pleased to say that with time running out we came across 6 birds (3 adults and 3 juveniles)! 

Victory snatched from the jaws of defeat as we found these Caspian Plovers just before we needed to leave the area.

We also enjoyed close views of this rather confiding if not slightly nervous Pallas's Sandgrouse.

Pallas's Sandgrouse

Plus this very pale large raptor that we just couldn't fathom what it was and as I write it remains unidentified.

Mystery raptor - suggestions and thoughts are welcome.

ebird checklist here

Sadly that was the end of our time in the Taukum desert, we returned to our motel, checked out and were on the road again by 1pm. We spent most of the rest of that day driving towards the Ile River Delta. Within about 30 minutes of our accommodation we stooped  at an area of Turanga Woods to try for White-winged Woodpecker, Yellow-eyed Dove and Turkestan Tit and Saxual Sparrow. ebird checklist here

White-winged Woodpecker

Yellow-eyed Dove

Late that evening we arrived at our rather interesting guesthouse, a pirate themed venue complete with strippers pole!! 

They laid on a sumptuous meal of grilled Carp, salads and dumplings. 

Grilled Carp with all the trimmings

Dumplings, salads, bread - our waistlines were slowly expanding

The toilet was a bit basic so I elected to pee in a bottle that night rather than brave the dark. 

The 'en-suite' loo!

As sunset we had European Nightjar, Common Nightingale and Pallid Scops Owl. 

Pallid Scop's Owl

We left the pirate hotel the next morning but not before I dug out a Shrikra and Common Nightingale in the grounds. ebird checklist here 

As the day progressed we ventured further into the Ile River Delta stopping off at various different spots during the day. Highlights included Pallas's Sandgrouse, a Golden Eagle being chased by a Long-legged Buzzard, Steppe Grey Shrike and halimodendri Lesser Whitethroat.

Golden Eagle accompanied by Long-legged Buzzard

'halimodendri' Lesser Whitethroat - one of the eastern forms of Lesser Whitethroat.

Checklists are here and here.

We reached our camping spot by 5pm and whilst Louis and myself looked for and found Pander's Ground Jay, Anar set up our camp. We had brief views of Pander's Ground Jay and I enjoyed much closer views of an Asian Desert Warbler. After we had pitched tents, inflated the mattresses we settled down for dinner. As we sat eating Nightjars flew over our heads and we watched the moon come up as the sun set. We all went to bed at 8pm but I just lay awake in my tent listening to the sounds and silence of the desert, which from what I could tell was mostly Isabelline Wheatears, Crickets and Nightjars.

Yet another excellent 'field kitchen' meal from Anar

The moon rising over our desert basecamp

The sun sets on another great day of birding

We rose at 4am to search for Pander's Ground Jay, managing to locate a small party of these charismatic birds.

Pander's Ground Jay

We then gathered for breakfast followed by one final bit of birding in the area where I tried for shots of Turkestan Shrike, Asian Desert Warbler and Rufous Bush Chat. I failed with two but got decent shots of Asian Desert Warbler.

Asian Desert Warbler

With that, we packed up our tents, hit the road once more and spent the rest of that day driving towards our next set of digs. I was so tired that evening that I skipped dinner altogether and went to bed early.